FLOORS – CALCULATE YOUR SURFACE AREA

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HARDWOOD FLOORS

Click on each type of wood flooring to see its detailed fact sheet.

Classic 3/4″

conseils

Tips

  • Install the floor as the last step during renovations.
  • Heat the home for at least one week before installation.
  • Keep the subfloor dry and the basement well ventilated.
  • Acclimatize the wood for at least 24 hours before installation.
  • Maintain the relative humidity at between 40% and 50%.
  • To measure the humidity, use a hygrometer, which will indicate whether the air is too humid or not humid enough. You can, therefore, determine whether special measures are necessary, and if so, which measures should be taken.

commencer

Before starting

1- Check the moisture of the subfloor

Using a moisture tester for wood, make sure the moisture content of the subfloor does not exceed 12% and does not differ more than 4% from the flooring that will be installed. If the moisture content is too high, find the source of the moisture and correct it.

2- Check that the subfloor is in good condition

The subfloor must be composed of plywood boards at least 5/8 in. [16 mm] thick, or “OSB”-approved particle board 3/4 in. [19 mm] thick if the structure includes bridged floor joists at 16 in. [400 mm] intervals. Screw the subfloor firmly into the joists to prevent movement and cracking. Replace the existing flooring or subfloor that may have been damaged by water or have structural weaknesses. The surface must be flat. The maximum tolerance is 3/16 in. [5 mm] of deviation over 10 ft. [3 m]. If necessary, sand the rises with 20-grit sandpaper.

3- Clean the subfloor

The subfloor must be well swept, smooth, and free of debris, staples, apparent nails, old adhesive material, or other dried products.

preparation

Preparation

1- Make a sketch of the installation

Determine where the wall is, or the starting point, and the direction in which the floorboards will be installed. Installing floors perpendicular to or at 45° to the joists is recommended.

2- Spread the felt paper

Spread the felt paper [or equivalent] over the entire surface.

3- Open a few boxes and arrange the floorboards as they will be installed

For the best possible appearance, spread the floorboards across the whole room in the way they will be installed to ensure a mixture of colours and shades. Remove or move the unwanted floorboards. Select those that align best with the transition mouldings that will be installed.

4- Draw a line to align the first row

Using the cord, draw a guideline parallel to the starting wall, chosen considering the width of the floorboards and adding 3/4 in. [19 mm]. This space corresponds to the space reserved for the expansion joints and the tab. Select the longest and straightest boards for the first row.

installation

Floorboard installation

1- Place, drill, and hammer in the first row

Install the first floorboard at 1/4 in. [6 mm] from the perpendicular wall at your right. The tab side should be placed along the starting line, and the groove side should face the starting wall. Drill and hammer the floorboard on top, as close to the wall as possible. Install the following boards towards the left until you must cut the last board to finish the row.

2- Use the cut floorboards to start the next row

The floorboard used to finish the first row should be long enough to start the second row with the remaining end. Leave 1/4 in. [6 mm] of space between the wall and the end of the last floorboard of each row. Start the second row with the remaining end, which should be at least 6 in. [150 mm] longer or shorter than the floorboard used in the first row. This will prevent the joints from mis-aligning.

3- Nail the first rows by hand

The first rows of floorboards should be nailed by hand with a hammer, a nail punch, and finishing nails, as the wall will prevent easy use of a nail gun. Nails should be set along the tab, approximately 4 in. [100 mm] from one another.

4- Use the nail gun as soon as possible

Subsequent rows will be installed the same way, but with the nail gun.

5- Nail the last rows by hand

The last four or five rows must be installed the same way as the first rows because of their proximity to the wall. You may need to cut the floorboards against the wall to leave the 1/2 in. [12 mm] necessary for the expansion joints.

6- Enjoy your floor for a long time!

recommander

Recommended installation

Ground floor

Engineered

conseils

Tips

  • Install the floor as the last step during renovations.
  • Heat the home for at least one week before installation.
  • Keep the subfloor dry and the basement well ventilated.
  • Maintain the relative humidity at ± 45% [between 40% and 60%].
  • To measure the humidity, use a hygrometer, which will indicate whether the air is too humid or not humid enough. You can, therefore, determine whether special measures are necessary, and if so, which measures should be taken.
  • Let the concrete subfloor dry for a minimum of 30 days, but preferably between 45 and 90 days.

* Please contact Bois Franc R. Thérrien to learn more about the acoustic membranes recommended for the Engineered floor.

commencer

Before starting

1- Check the moisture of the subfloor

Using a moisture tester for wood, make sure the moisture content of the subfloor does not exceed 12% and does not differ more than 4% from the flooring that will be installed. If the moisture content is too high, find the source of the moisture and correct it. Using a moisture tester for concrete, check for moisture. If so, the calcium chloride test should be performed. The moisture content of the concrete subfloor must not exceed 3 lbs. per 1,000 sq. Ft. per 24 hours. If it exceeds 3 lbs., Install a complete waterproofing system for the concrete [sealant and adhesive].

2- Check the good conditions of the subfloor

The subfloor must be composed of plywood boards at least 5/8 in. [16 mm] thick, or “OSB”-approved particle board 3/4 in. [19 mm] thick. Screw the subfloor firmly into the joists to prevent movement and cracking. Replace the existing flooring or subfloor that may have been damaged by water or have structural weaknesses. The surface must be flat. The maximum tolerance is 3/16 in. [5 mm] of deviation over 10 ft. [3 m]. If necessary, sand the rises with 20-grit sandpaper.

3- Clean the subfloor

The subfloor must be well swept, smooth, and free of debris, staples, apparent nails, old adhesive material, or other dried products.

preparation

Preparation

1- Make a sketch of the installation

Determine where the wall is, or the starting point, and the direction in which the floorboards will be installed.

2- Spread the felt paper

installation

Floorboard installation (Stapled or glued)

STAPLED

1- Draw a guideline

Using the line, draw a guideline parallel to the starting wall at 2-13 / 16 “[71 mm] for 2-9 / 16” [65 mm] wide boards, or 3-9 / 16 [90 mm] for planks 3-5 / 16 “[84 mm] wide, or 5-1 / 4” [133 mm] for planks 5 “[127 mm] wide, considering the 1 / 4 “[6 mm] minimum required for expansion joint.

 2- Place, drill, and hammer in the first row

Install the first floorboard at 1/4 in. [6 mm] from the perpendicular wall at your right. The tab side should be placed along the starting line, and the groove side should face the starting wall. Drill and hammer the floorboard on top, as close to the wall as possible. Install the following boards towards the left until you must cut the last board to finish the row.

3- Use the cut floorboards to start the next row

The floorboard used to finish the first row should be long enough to start the second row with the remaining end. Leave 1/4 in. [6 mm] of space between the wall and the end of the last floorboard of each row. Start the second row with the remaining end, which should be at least 6 in. [150 mm] longer or shorter than the floorboard used in the first row. This will prevent the joints from mis-aligning.

4- Nail the first rows by hand

The first rows of floorboards should be nailed by hand with a hammer, a nail punch, and finishing nails, as the wall will prevent easy use of a nail gun. Nails should be set along the tab, approximately 4 in. [100 mm] from one another.

5- Use the nail gun as soon as possible

Subsequent rows will be installed the same way, but with the nail gun. The staples should be about 4 to 5 inches [100 to 125 mm] apart, and more than 2 inches [50 mm] from the end of each board.

6- Nail the last rows by hand

The last 4 or 5 rows must be installed the same way as the first rows because of their proximity to the wall. You may need to cut the floorboards against the wall to leave the 1/4 in. [6mm] necessary for the expansion joints.

7- Enjoy your floor for a long time!

GLUED

1- Draw a guideline

Using the line, draw a guide line parallel to the starting wall at 31 “[788 mm] for 2-9 / 16” [65 mm] wide, 33-3 / 8 “[848 mm] planks for 3-5 / 16 “[84 mm] wide, or 30-1 / 4” [768 mm] planks for 5 “[127 mm] wide planks. The section between the starting wall and the line will become the work area for the start of the installation and will be the last part of the floor to be covered. This will avoid shrinking the last row of planks while leaving the minimum 1/4 “[6 mm] required for the expansion joint.

2- Place and nail guides boards

Nail guide boards inside the work area, along the line. These guides will serve as a support point for the installation of the first boards.

3- Apply adhesive

Apply the adhesive by sliding the trowel at a 45o angle. The adhesive that will settle between the teeth of the trowel will correspond to the amount needed to apply. Do not spread the adhesive over an area that requires more than 2 hours to cover.

4- Install the boards from the first row

Using the work area, install the first 1/4 “[6 mm] board from the wall perpendicular to your left, the side of the tongue against the batten and press the board into the adhesive. Install the following boards heading to the right until you have to cut the last one to finish the row.

5- Recover the cut boards to start the next row

The board selected to finish the first row must be long enough to start the second row with the remaining tip. Leave the second row with the remaining tip, which must be at least 6 “[150 mm] longer or shorter than the last one. The card used in the first row. The offset of the transverse joints from one row of boards to the other should be at least 6 “[150 mm] Avoid the alignment effect or excessively regular climbing of the joints Engage the end of the groove In the tab of the board and lower it as close as possible to the adjacent board. Slide the tab side into the groove and press the board.

6- Join the last row of boards using the lever bar

The subsequent rows are installed in the same way as the previous rows. When the main section of the floor is finished, remove the slats and install in the work area in the same way. Join the last row of planks using the lever bar, remembering that there is a minimum 1/4 “[6 mm] space required for the expansion joint.

7- Complete your installation perfectly

Use a blue “3M” adhesive tape to hold the planks in place. This will avoid movement that would cause gaps between them during installation. After installing a section of the floor, use the roller to ensure better contact of the boards with the adhesive. Do not put any adhesive in the grooves of the boards, which would prevent perfect fit with the next row.

8- Wait 24 hours before replacing the furniture

9- Enjoy your floor for a long time !

 

recommander

Recommended installation

Lock

conseils

Tips

  • Install the floor as the last step during renovations.
  • Heat the home for at least one week before installation.
  • Keep the subfloor dry and the basement well ventilated.
  • Store the sealed wooden boxes in the room where the floor will be. Installed at least 24 hours before pose.
  • Maintain the relative humidity at ± 45% [between 40% and 60%].
  • To measure the humidity, use a hygrometer, which will indicate whether the air is too humid or not humid enough. You can, therefore, determine whether special measures are necessary, and if so, which measures should be taken.
  • Let the concrete subfloor dry for a minimum of 30 days, but preferably between 45 and 90 days.

commencer

Before starting

1- Check the moisture of the subfloor

Using a moisture tester for wood, make sure the moisture content of the subfloor does not exceed 12% and does not differ more than 4% from the flooring that will be installed. If the moisture content is too high, find the source of the moisture and correct it. Using a moisture tester for concrete, check for moisture. If so, the calcium chloride test should be performed. The moisture content of the concrete subfloor must not exceed 3 lbs. per 1,000 sq. Ft. per 24 hours.

2- Check the correct sub-floor conditions

The subfloor must be composed of plywood boards at least 5/8 in. [16 mm] thick, or “OSB”-approved particle board 3/4 in. [19 mm] thick. Screw the subfloor firmly into the joists to prevent movement and cracking. Replace the existing flooring or subfloor that may have been damaged by water or have structural weaknesses. The surface must be flat. The maximum tolerance is 3/32 in. [2 mm] of deviation over 7 ft. [2 m]. If necessary, sand the rises with 20-grit sandpaper or fill the unevenness with levelling compound.

3- Clean the subfloor

The subfloor must be well swept, smooth, and free of debris, staples, apparent nails, old adhesive material, or other dried products.

preparation

Preparation

1- Make a sketch of the installation

Determine where the wall is, or the starting point, and the direction in which the floorboards will be installed. The boards of the last row must have a width of at least 1-1 / 2 “[38 mm] to secure them properly. If the width of the last row should be less than 1-1 / 2 “[38 mm], you will need to reduce the first row so that the last row meets this minimum requirement.

2- Open a few boxes and arrange the floorboards as they will be installed

For the best possible appearance, spread the floorboards across the whole room in the way they will be installed to ensure a mixture of colours and shades. Remove or move the unwanted floorboards. Select those that align best with the transition mouldings that will be installed.

3- Draw a line to align the first row

Using the cord, draw a guideline parallel to the starting wall. This line must be perpendicular to the adjacent wall.

installation

Floorboard installation

1- Place the membrane

Cover the entire subfloor surface and wall base [approximately 2 “[51 mm]] with the recommended membrane. Lay the membrane strips in the opposite direction of the boards that will be installed without overlapping. The recommended membrane includes a self-adhesive adhesive flap. Use the waterproof tape to join the straps on the short side.

2- Place the first row

Start in the left corner of the room by placing the first board, side of the groove facing you. Leave an expansion space between the wall and the sides of the board. Install the next board as you move to the right. Vertically place its end tab into the end groove of the first board. Continue in the same way until you have to cut the last board to finish the first row.

3- Recover the cut boards to start the next row

The board selected to finish the first row should have a sufficient length to begin the second row with the remaining tip. Provide space for expansion so that the floor can expand in all directions. Begin the second row with the remaining end of the board that should be at least 6 “[150 mm] longer or shorter than the one used in the first row. The offset of transverse joints from one row of boards to the other must be at least 6 “[150 mm]. Avoid the alignment effect or the excessively regular climbing of the joints. Insert the longitudinal tab of the board into the groove of the board of the first row at an angle of 45 °. Align the left end, remove the board and apply a slight pressure to engage the restraint system.

4- Encase the subsequent rows

Install the subsequent rows in the same way. Since it is still possible to move the floor after installing the third row, measure and correct the alignment with the bumpers if necessary.

5- Place the boards of the last row

The boards of the last row must be at least 1-1 / 2 “[38 mm] wide, leaving the expansion space necessary. If an obstacle prevents the last plank from being installed, cut the groove retainer lock with a wood chisel. Apply wood glue to the groove and insert the last plank.

6- Enjoy your floor for a long time !

 

recommander

Recommanded installation

Ground floor


FLOOR FINISHES

Available types of wood finish

Semi-gloss
Cashmere
Oiled
Unfinished
Recessed floor vent
Curved floor vent

FLOOR SPECIES

The number corresponds to the force in pounds, measured according to the Janka test. The Janka test measures the force required to drive a steel ball (0.444 inches in diameter) into the wood. This test serves to determine how easy it would be to saw and nail the wood. Oak is the reference species to compare the hardness of wood. The higher the number, the harder the wood.

950

Black cherry

1010

Black walnut

1260

Yellow birch

1290

Red Oak

1360

White Oak

1450

Sugar maple

1500

Sapele mahogany

1500

African mahogany

1820

Hickory

2200

Cabreuva / Santos mahogany

2350

Brazilian cherry (Jacoby)


LAMINATED FLOORS

With a wide range of colours and thicknesses, Bois Franc R. Therrien provides floating floors that meet environmental standards for customer health. All flooring sold conforms to international standards to reduce gas emissions.


MATERIAL STORAGE FLOORS

With a wide range of colours and thicknesses, Bois Franc R. Therrien provides floating floors that meet environmental standards for customer health. All flooring sold conforms to international standards to reduce gas emissions.

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